I purchased a 1997 Z3 1.9 roadster in June and only received one keyless entry remote, even though it came with two sets of keys. Two weeks ago, I was searching for another remote, and found that if I were to purchase a keyless remote (part # 82 11 1 469 448) at a BMW dealership, it would cost around $120. Also, if I wanted to have the remote activated, so that it would operate on my vehicle, it would cost an additional $70. For all us BMW owners out there, doesn’t it seem a bit odd that you bought a $30,000 sports car, and yet BMW still feels free to charge excessive amounts of money for relatively simple things. Activating a keyless remote is a simple thing. To make a long story short, I managed to buy a copy of the instructions, on how to activate or deactivate the keyless remote, for $7. I feel that something so simple (and actually pretty fun), should not cost $70. It all boils down to highway robbery. I know that this works on a ’97 Z3, and with a keyless remote part # 82 11 1 469 448, so, without further adieu, here are the instructions for activating a keyless remote on a BMW. FOR FREE!!!!
Each remote transmitter has a unique identification (ID) code. In order for a replacement remote to operate your security system, or to delete the ID code from a lost remote, you must follow the procedures detailed below so that your system’s control module will learn/delete the desired ID code(s). This code-learning initialization procedure must be followed precisely within the sequence and time constraints specified, in order for the procedure to be carried out successfully.
1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood.
2. The security system must be in “disarm” mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot.
Enter Code-Learning Mode
3. Open the trunk and leave it open.
4. Open the driver’s door and sit in the driver’s seat.
5. Close the driver’s door.
6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the “off” position and position 2 (ignition “ON”, all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will “chirp” once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated.
DO NOT START THE ENGINE
The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds.
The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds.
Registering/Delete ID Code(s)
7. Open driver’s door, (remain seated in driver’s seat)
8. Close driver’s door.
9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered.
10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes.
Exiting Code-Learning Mode
11. Open driver’s door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened.
12. Close trunk.
13. Close driver’s door. The LED will turn off and the siren will “chirp” twice.
14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation.
It is possible for the system to memorize a total of four different ID codes. As a new code is initialized into memory, the oldest code in memory is automatically deleted. If you had lost your remotes and wished to delete the lost remote ID codes from memory, you could initialize the ID code from a newly purchased replacement transmitter four times thereby deleting the previous ID codes from system memory.
If you have any questions, I can be reached at KitIson1985@aol.com.
Hartage M Coupe
November 3, 2002
MZ3.net Photos of the Month 2002
It all started from my house in Annapolis Maryland and down with the DC area Z3 group to SC. After that I tagged along with the Tennessee group (Great beer, company and food. Thanks guys) on my way to Denver. At Denver I picked up my girlfriend at the airport to start the long roundabout drive to see this great country we live in.
This is the list of what I did:
* Grand Junction, CO (Hotel)
* Arches National Park, UT (tent camping)
* Mesa Verde NP, CO (camping)
* Grand Canyon NP, AZ (camping)
* Las Vegas, NV (Hotel)
* Zion NP, UT (Hotel on the 11th)
* Bryce Canyon NP, UT (camping)
* Salt Lake City, UT (Hotel)
* Jackson, WY (Hotel)
* Grand Teton NP, WY (camping)
* Yellowstone NP, WY (camping two nights)
* Badlands NP, SD (camping)
* Chicago, IL (friend’s house)
* Home on Sunday afternoon and spent the afternoon washing my very dirty car.
Some facts about my trip:
* 7,281 miles driven
* 29 mpg average (The performance driving at HC brought this way down!)
* 52 mph average speed
* 120 mph top speed (girlfriend would not let me go faster)
* Most speed traps in Ohio
* No V1 required (Never got ticket! And I was always speeding, well almost always)
* Only lost $120 in Vegas
* Was very close to wining a Z3! (I had 0 0 7 in a row but it was 1/2″ away from the Pay Line)
What I had in a Z3 trunk:
* Two 24 disk CD holders (I have the OEM 6 disk CD player)
* 2 1/2 person tent and tarp
* Two sleeping pads
* One sleeping bag (other one was behind passenger seat)
* Camping stove
* Two tanks of fuel
* Pots, pans, cups and plates
* Spices and other cooking stuff
* Food for over five days
* Three sets of shoes but only two sets in the trunk at one time (Hiking boots, Tevas, dress and I forgot she had to bring some running shoes so make that three sets in the trunk)
* Two rain jackets and two Fleece
* Two bath towels and one hand towel
* One large duffel bag and one backpack
* Clothing for two people for over a week each that included summer type for the hot desert, winter type for the COLD Mountains and a nice set for going out to dinner.
* Toiletries for each
* I almost forgot that wonderful backpack from Homecoming. (My girlfriend made me mail it home in Salt Lake City but we did use it)
Things in the front seat:
* Small cooler
* Small backpack with snacks
* Water bottle
* Camcorder, two cameras and film (I will post pics later)
Things behind seats:
* More food
* Extra hats
* Car cover
* Car washing stuff
* Sleeping bag
* Coffee mug
Worst thing that happened on the trip other than the 11th: Ran over a large rock! 20 miles from Jackson, WY it was raining and dark. I was behind a RV and a pickup truck in a one lane road. They of course just drive over the thing but I was not as lucky. On coming traffic prevented me from avoiding it so I had no choice but to drive over it. Not a good thing to hear as the big bang under the car and the many pieces of rock I saw in the rear view mirror as I drive on. With no place to pull over and the heavy rain I drive the 20 miles to town. I wanted to put the car on a lift to see if the car was damaged but I could not find a single gas station with a service center. I checked the oil and looked under the car. I saw a scratch in that bar before the axel but it all looked ok. Well after many looks under the car and repeated oil checking the car ran like a champ.
June 9, 2002
By: Brian Pearcy
* g-power supercharger with 405 hp
* complete stainless steel exhaust system
* Porsche brake with 322mm brake discs
* KW-height and hardness adjustable suspension (very low)
* No Door Locks
* No rear Screen Wiper
* No antenna
* No BMW signs
* Rear spoiler in car colour
* Strut brace
* wheel spacers 5mm front, 20mm rear
* 265/40 on rear axis
* Plastic coated wheels (black)
* White indicator bulbs front and rear
* clutch stop
* 32cm diameter steering wheel with full size airbag
Coming Soon… More details and photos
One of the most consistent failures in the BMW Z3 is the gas gauge. I’ve heard different excuses as to why the gas gauge fails, but rather than pretend to be an engineer or parts inspector let me just share with you some observations I have made regarding my wacky gas gauge.
Let me start by saying I never had a problem during my first year of ownership. But others were having problems during that time so I heard a lot of speculation regarding what caused the failure and I got to see what BMW’s fix was for those under warranty. I can almost pin-point the exact time mine started acting up. I was refueling and for some reason, when the gas pumped stopped I squeezed the pump trigger one more time. I don’t know why I did it, I had been warned not to yet for some reason I did it.
It was long afterwards I saw the gas gauge do its first flip-flop dance between empty and full. The error was initially intermittent, but over time it has become very consistent. Now mine always (and I do mean always) does its dance between empty and full right after I refuel. This will continue until I travel roughly 30 miles, I’ve never noticed the problem beyond the first 30 miles of a tank. Couple months ago I decided to try an experiment, instead of refilling until the pump clicks off I started buying my gas in $10 increments (never filling the tank all the way). The gas gauge never did its dance during the 4 or 5 tanks that I did the $10 thing. So at least in my case, these observations seem to back up the theory that the failure is related to the sending unit. I’ve learned to live with it, but learn from my experiences and resist the urge to squeeze that gas pump trigger again once it clicks off.
I have made the decision to live with it rather than have it fixed because I am not comfortable with the “fix”. To get to the sending unit BMW has to cut the carpet behind the passenger seat. Then they have to hook a hose and drain the gas tank (hopefully without leaving your interior smelling like gasoline). If you look behind the right hand seat you can see a seam in the carpet, this is where they will make the cut. Once the sending unit is replaced the carpet is glued back down. Sounds simple enough but I have seen more than one Z3 after this fix where the carpet flap has come unglued and ends up looking like a bad toupee. It also appears the new sending units are not necessarily any more reliable than the original ones.
I’ve owned my M roadster over four years now and my refueling habits are fairly consistent. I’ll usually refuel before the low fuel light comes on, if I push it and the low fuel light comes on then pull off at the next available gas station. I use my trip odometer to measure distance on a tankful, and on average it usually says around 240 miles since my last refueling and it will take around 12 gallons to fill the tank back up.
One day after work I pushed it a too far, the engine sputtered then quit. I zig-zagged a little and got another second or two of runtime before it quit for good. Luckily I was going downhill at the time so I managed to coast into the gas station and right up to the pump. I got lucky, and this provided me with an opportunity. I now know it takes 13.3 gallons to fill a completely empty tank. I started taking notes after that and refilling at different points on my gas gauge. It takes 8.9 gallons to fill a tank that my gauge indicates is half empty. 12.3 gallons to fill a tank right after the low fuel light comes on. I will continue to take measurements at various points on my fuel gauge and update this page.
One last final note: Remember that my fuel gauge has problems so my measurements may not be typical of most Z3s.