UUC Oil Filter Lid

Pros: Looks really good
Cons: Just a cosmetic upgrade, although some theorize the additional ///M logo will make the car faster.
Cost: List price: $99 (from UUC motorwerks)

Click for Larger ViewThe ///M engine is a beautiful sight to behold. It is a classic german design, everything has a purpose and the visual aspects are clean and understated. As you can see in the picture on the right (click on any of these pictures for a larger view), I have added a Dinan Strut Brace to my ///M roadster. The Dinan brace not only improves the cars handling, it also adds to the engine compartments visual aspect with it highly polished bar and carbon fiber inserts.

I recently added an additional ///M logo to the front of the engine compartment and it added a nice visual touch as well. The wife questioned “who will ever see that” and the best I could do was to draw an analogy of getting a tattoo on your butt. Maybe only a select few will ever see it, but the important thing is that you know it is there and you like it.

Click for Larger ViewIn the front/middle of the engine compartment is the stock oil filter container. It has a textured metal case with a matching dull metallic lid. The metal has a slight brownish tint to it and it is not much to look at, but none the less the container does its job. A single bolt holds the lid firmly down onto the container making it easy to remove the lid and change the filter. German efficiency at it’s finest.

Click for Larger ViewI know this is was going totally overboard, but somewhere in the back of my mind I had once pondered “what if I somehow made this look better”. While it was nearly a forgotten pondering, some time later I stumble upon a picture of the UUC oil filter cap. It turns out there were other equally strange individuals out there that wanted a better looking oil filter cap as well and the UUC delivered the cure. It looked like it was time for another butt tattoo. (I hope you are understanding this analogy and not thinking I’m really getting tattoos on my ass).

Click for Larger ViewReplacement was pretty straight forward. A 13mm socket was used to remove the single bolt and the lid came right off. The UUC lid is heavier and taller than the stock design but uses the same single bolt to hold the lid in place. There is a rubber ring around the lid that gets replaced at every oil change. You will need to move that ring from the old lid to the new lid or time your lid replacement to coincide with a oil change and put the new ring (which comes with the oil filter) on the new lid.

Click for Larger ViewOnce the rubber ring is in place, tighten the lid back down. Engraved on the new lid is the torque value “15 to 18 ft lbs”, but you can feel the lid seat against the container without using a torque wrench. The UUC lid comes with an indentation in which you can insert either an ///M logo or the UUC’s logo. Both are provided with the UUC oil filter lid in addition to a larger silver UUC sticker.

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The UUC is working on a similar oil filter cap that that will have oil temp and pressure outputs with plugs and hoses, the works. That one is still in development at the time of this article.

Update: Just found out that the UUC is also working a polished oil filter cap bolts. So the bolt head that is visible on top of the polished oil filter cap will match the polished lid. In the pictures above the stock bolt is being used and it does stand out as being ugly on top of the polished lid.

Z Rated Tire Patch-Plug

Z Rated Patch/PlugNot soon after recovering from the expense of new M roadster tires I discover a nail embedded in the tread. I immediatly remembered previous debates of patching vs plugging damaged tires. Both solutions appeared to work but in either case you technically lost the Z rating on the tires. If you’ve got a lead foot this loss of rating can be concerning to say the least.

When I brought my problem and concern to the attention of a tire repair shop, I was happy to find a solution. Pictured to the right is a Z Rated Patch-Plug. I have no idea who makes it or any other details, but the tire shop made it sound like a fairly common item they use whenever repairing a Z rated tire.

The tire tech broke down the tire and removed the nail. The patch-plug and area around the hole inside the tire were cleaned and then coated with what I assume to be a thick glue substance. The pointy end of this patch-plug is threaded through the hole the nail left, until the patch (round part at the bottom of the picture) makes contact with the inside of the tire. You end up with what appears to be a nail sticking out of your tire. The tire tech snipped off the protruding section, put the tire back together and then rebalanced it. I was told to take it easy on the tire for a day and then consider the tire “good as new”.

Note: I did not ask permission to publish the name of the tire repair shop. Previous experience in publishing information on ///MZ3.Net has taught me to error on the side of caution, so the actual name is withheld but your local BMW dealership should be able to repair the tire or find someone who can.

Update: It’s been three months and the tire has preformed well. While I don’t want to incriminate myself, lets just say that I have full confidence in the Z Rating of the patch/plug 🙂

Reader’s Comment: Good article on correctly repairing your tire. The repair you used is the only one that is recognized by the major tire manufacturers. It is made in Johnstown, Ohio by Tech International. You’ve probably seen the red Tech logo in lots of tire stores, gas stations, etc. Their web site is www.techtirerepairs.com They don’t sell to the general public and as you noted, this particular repair takes some skill and equipment to install.