BMW Mudflaps

Pros: Easy to install, keeps the car a little cleaner, possibly stops a few paint chips from happening
Cons: Some like the looks some don’t, rear flaps don’t fit perfectly on the 2.8
Cost: $45.56

BMW Part Numbers

Front – 82-16-9-405-191 ($20.00 pair)

Rear – 82-16-9-405-192 ($25.56 pair)

BMW includes Installation instructions with the mudflaps, however those instructions are only for the 1.9 Z3. 2.8 Z3 owner Bill Jones authored the modified instructions below for installation on the 2.8 Z3.

Rear Mud Flap Installation Tips

Since I don’t know your mechanical skills, make sure that you are comfortable with the following procedure before you do any modifications to your vehicle or the mudflaps. I am not responsible for the outcome – you are.

1. The rear mudflaps are designed for the 1.9 model, and cannot be used on the 2.8 without modification to the mounting hole position.

2. There are 2 pre-drilled holes in the lower edge of the mudflap, which are used to mount the mudflap to the 2 bolts securing the lower edge of the rear bumper. However, on the 2.8, you use only the outer bolt due to the additional width of the rear wheel wells.

3. So – follow the instructions supplied with the following changes.

1. On the mud flap, drill a 5/16″ hole between the existing holes, located 1/4 to 5/16″ inboard from the center point between the existing holes. Offset this new hole 3/16″ toward the rear of the flap (as it would be mounted on the car). This hole will be used with the new (supplied with the kit) mounting bolt in the outer bolt position to secure the mudflap.

2. Make sure that the mudflaps are at room temperature or above, preferably a bit warmer. You can use a warm oven (preheat to warm and turn it off!) to warm the mudflaps. The warm plastic will conform to the bumper body shape easier.

3. OPTIONAL – Perhaps I’m “anal retentive”, but I secured the flap with the above mentioned bolt, completed the installation and then marked the position of the unused outboard hole in the mudflap on the bumper. I removed the mudflap and drilled an additional hole in the bumper, so that I could then use the other bolt supplied in the kit to reinstall the mudflap with two bolts.

4. OPTIONAL – I used black RTV (silicone sealer) around the edge of the mudflap that is next to the wheel well liner. Form a filet with your fingertip (dip finger in denatured alcohol first) for a smooth joint.

Chrome Front License Plate

Pros: Easy and Cheap
Cons: Flat design where the stock one is bend with the bumper
Cost: $15

This is a simple $15 upgrade if you are looking to add more chrome to your Z3. The existing black plastic license plate frame and this chrome frame are direct replacements. The BMW part number is on the lower license plate.

Bavarian Autosport Floormats

Pros: Very durable, probably last forever
Cons: Didn’t stay in place until I purchased some clips
Cost: $79

Purchased from Bavarian Autosport for $79. They are very durable and will probably last forever.

Initially I was a little let down because they kept sliding forward, but I purchased some $1.99 clips (lower picture) from a local car parts store (PepBoys), now the floor mats stay in place.

BMW Windscreen (1st Design)

Pros: Makes top down driving more enjoyable by eliminating the back draft caused by a cars aerodynamics
Cons: You have to cut some plastic to install it
Cost: $250

After installing the BMW windscreen, I quickly threw the tools back onto my work bench and took the roadster out for a spin. Unlike the Remus, the benefits of this install were immediately noticed. At speeds of under 25mph the difference was noticeable, but small, as I slowly got faster I noticed that the wind inside the cockpit hardly increased. I headed towards the Dallas autobahn (also known as the Dallas Tollway), to give this wind screen the ultimate test. I paid my fifty cents and then quickly accelerated to…. well lets just say I gave the wind screen a good test and it passed with flying colors.

Before I go on with this glowing review, let me point out a negative comment I have about the wind screen. It took me a couple days to get use to it, but the visibility through your rear view mirror is substantially reduced. As I said, I think I’ve gotten use to it, but I’m still a little concerned that the decrease in visibility might cause a problem in traffic.

Okay that said, let me now point out some more good points.

1. My roadster is parked in a parking lot at work and the windscreen (in the up position) with the top also up acts as a excellent sun shade. I make a point to park the roadster with the back window facing west so in the afternoon the sun’s heat is blocked by the wind screen. This has made the roadster much cooler to enter after work.

2. The decrease in wind has made the stereo more audible and cleaner at high-way speeds.

3. The decrease in wind has also made the environmental controls (AC and Heat) much more efficient. In the mornings a little heat keeps the cockpit nice and warm. While after work the A/C keeps the Texas heat at bay.

Since purchasing this windscreen BMW has released two other windscreen designs. Do date I really haven’t had a chance to compare the other two, but visually it would appear that the 1st design (this design) will block more wind. The 2nd design appeared to be harder to install but did not occupy the mount towers that the 1st design did. The 3rd design I have only seen on pictures. It is designed to work with the BMW roll-hoops which became stand with the ’98 models.

I ended up purchasing the HMS rollbar and selling this windscreen to another Z3 owner, the HMS windscreen has it’s good and bad points in comparison to this design. However this design is seems to have a real good balance of form and function.


After a quick jump over to a friends house (top down of course) I returned home. As I pulled into my driveway, I attempted to fix my wind-blown hair. It was then that I noticed a thin, flat, box propped against my door. The long wait had finally ended, for within this cardboard box was a genuine, BMW Z3 wind screen. Shipped from the mother land herself (Germany).

Upon opening the box I noticed a cloth/nylon bag that housed the wind screen, “Oh cool it even comes with a case” I proclaimed to my uninterested wife. Opening the zipper produced the rarest sight a Z3 owner had ever seen. I then turned my attention to the instruction manual. Doh!, It’s written in German (at least I think it’s German). I put the wind screen down and went to print out an e-mail that was sent to me by Robert Kamen (a.k.a. the “other” Robert). Looking at the pieces within the box, and Robert’s instructions I concluded that this install looked relatively easy, however it involved some cutting so I got a little nervous. A quick inventory of my tools however convinced me that I was well equipped to perform this surgery because I had three tools that seemed perfect for this job.

(Note: Intermixed within the following text are the install instructions that Robert Kamen (a.k.a. the “other” Robert) sent me. I would like to thank Mr. Kamen and acknowledge his input into this web page.)

Step 1: (Repeat for both sides) Pop off the cap on top of the seat belt towers. The instruction say to drill a hole in the caps, then put a hook type device (folded coat hanger) in the hole and pull the caps off. No need. Just use a flat-bladed screwdriver with a rag under the blade to prevent marring the surface of the mount and pry the top off. They are only glued on. The glue will eventually give up and the cap will pop off, leaving it looking like the picture to the right.

Step 2: (Repeat for both sides) Make a circular cut through the plastic housing and the foam underneath. This was accomplished with the help of “Perfect tool number one”, a drill and a special drill bit that cut a 1.5″ circle. This enabled me to quickly cut through the plastic housing and through the foam inside. This left a hole in the roadster about a half inch deep. (Note: The “other” Robert used an industrial razor or knife to do this job. Either will work, the drill will just work quicker).

Step 3: (Repeat for both sides) Once the foam is removed, you will see a plastic cap on top of a steel tube inside the seat belt tower. It sounds confusing, but it is plain as day once the foam is taken out. That plastic cap has got to be removed. It is also larger than the opening made by the cap that you removed in step two. Well the drill got me this far, I reinserted it and it made quick work of the plastic cap, but most of the now shredded cap fell down into the metal tube. (Note: The “other” Robert just took a hammer and screwdriver and whacked it a few times to break up the plastic cap. Then the pieces come right out.) What ever method you use, the goal is to break up that plastic cap so it can be removed.
Step 4: (Repeat for both sides) This is where “Perfect tool number two” made it’s entrance, I plugged my a shop-vac and was pleased to see that the extension wand fit down inside the metal tube sucking out all the parts of the shredded cap, foam and whatever else fell down there.

Step 5: (Repeat for both sides) At this point “Perfect tool number three”, a dremel tool cleaned up the cut the saw/drill had made and left a very smooth and perfect hole in my roadster. The rough areas in that picture are actually the foam below the plastic.

Step 6: (Repeat for both sides) Once the hole was created I inserted the bracket and tightened it until it very slightly rubbed, but was still able to rotate.

Step 7: With the wind screen locks, unlocked. Insert the wind screen into the bracket. This is why I said to leave the brackets still loose enough to rotate in step 6. Once the wind screen is installed lock the wind screen locks and position the wind screen so the brackets are somewhat equal in angle. Then tighten the brackets.
Step 8: Two washers came with the kit, these washers enable both the wind screen and the boot cover to snap onto the snap-things behind the storage compartment. Remove the snap-things add the washers then re-install. Now you can attach the lower flap of the wind screen and the boot cover (over a folded down convertible top) at the same time.

If you want to fold the windscreen down, slightly loosen the two side screws (under the rubber disks). I would suggest using some low grade lock-tight to make sure the screws don’t vibrate out. The windscreen should fold with a slight push or pull.